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The lead singer of Celtic band the Lads of Leisure pointed at our table while brandishing a highlighter green kazoo. A young girl who performed Irish step dances with the band shyly brought a basket of the bright green instruments to the table.

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CAPTAIN COOK, Hawaii — At the edge of an ancient lava flow where jagged black rocks meet the Pacific, small off-the-grid homes overlook the calm blue waters of Papa Bay on Hawaii’s Big Island — no tourists or hotels in sight. Here, one of the islands’ most abundant and vibrant coral reefs th…