By Cathy Barrow

Special to The Washington Post

Salty Sweet Corn Ice Cream

Makes 8 servings (makes 1 quart)

MAKE AHEAD: The corn cobs and kernels steep in the milk for an hour before making the base. The base mixture needs to be refrigerated for at least 2 hours and up to overnight.

2 C whole milk

1 C heavy cream

3 C fresh corn kernels sliced from 3 ears, cobs reserved

1/3 C sugar

1 TBS kosher salt

Combine the milk, corn kernels and cobs in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Once bubbles appear at the edges of the pan, cook for 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from the heat, cover and let the corn steep in the milk for 1 hour.

Stand the cooled cobs up in the pan. Scrape a blunt knife against each one to release any remaining liquid, then discard the cobs. Transfer the milk and corn kernels to a blender; puree for 3 to 5 minutes, until smooth.

Wipe out the saucepan, then add the heavy cream, sugar and salt, stirring to incorporate.

Pour the pureed corn mixture through a fine-mesh strainer directly into the saucepan's cream mixture, discarding any solids. Place over medium heat; cook for 7 to 9 minutes, making sure the sugar has dissolved.

Strain through the fine-mesh strainer (again), into a storage container. Cover and refrigerate until well chilled, about 2 hours or, preferably, overnight. This is your ice cream base. Whisk the chilled base, then pour into the container of an ice cream machine. Churn according to manufacturer's directions.

For a soft consistency, the ice cream can be served right away. Or transfer the ice cream to a freezer-safe container, cover and freeze for 2 to 3 hours.

— Adapted from chef Alex Stupak of Empellon in New York, by cookbook author and columnist Cathy Barrow.

Lolling in front of the air conditioner and wishing for Snowmageddon is one way to beat the heat. For me, the only sensible response is ice cream — specifically and most recently, the corn ice cream I had at New York's Empellon restaurant.

It filled a taco-shaped waffle and had me imagining a way to bring this quintessential double dose of summer flavor to a backyard get-together. With chef Alex Stupak's recipe in hand, I sought further advice from ice cream maker Susan Soorenko, owner of Moorenko's Ice Cream in Silver Spring, Maryland. She is a neighbor, so admittedly the search wasn't difficult. Moorenko's has made a sweet corn ice cream since 2009, finished with a pinch of salt.

I shared the Empellon ingredient list with her. The Empellon ice cream does not contain eggs, which accounts in part for its light and refreshing texture. It's more ice milk than ice cream, with corn-infused flavor so intense it reverberates. It also is slightly grainy and salt-forward on the tongue; Susan explained the graininess as expected. Corn is a grain, after all.

But salty-sweet corn ice cream is a bit unexpected, and that strong salt finish is delightful. I would serve it on its own anytime. Sandwiching it between two small crispy corn waffles takes the sweet treat over the top.