By Vicki Hillhouse

Walla Walla Union-Bulletin

COLLEGE PLACE, Wash. — Light tillage was the job of the afternoon on a spring day at Hayshaker Farm.

Two gray dapple Percheron geldings, Dusty and Jackson, dragged an implement through the soil where about 6 of the property’s 8 acres are under cultivation.

Dusty and Jackson came to Walla Walla from an Amish farm in Iowa in 2015. But to a lot of people, they look more like they were transported from the year 1890.

The kind of horsepower they provide is the type that farmers moved away from as the tractor changed the industry starting in the early 1900s.

But in a place where the previously derogatory farmer term “hayshaker” has been reclaimed, it may be no surprise that other aspects of farming have been recovered, too.

Hayshaker owners Chandler Briggs and Leila Schneider found the property at the edge of 12th Street on Craigslist five years ago.

Briggs, now in his 13th year of farming, began working with draft horses eight years ago under the mentorship of a number of Northwest growers, including Walla Walla’s Emily Asmus of Welcome Table Farms.

“First and foremost for me was the ecological impact,” Briggs said on a busy June afternoon.

Briggs’ code includes leaving the land better than he found it, growing produce that is nutritionally dense, providing a living wage for employees, and farming organically.

That’s not to say there are no gas-powered pieces of equipment. Hayshaker is a mixed-power farm that produces artichokes, basil, beans, beets, blackberries, broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, carrots, celeriac, chard, cilantro, cucumbers, eggplant, fava beans, fennel, garlic, kale, kohlrabi, leeks, lettuce, specialty melons, parsley, pea shoots, peppers, popcorn, potatoes, puntarelle, radicchio, radish, raspberries, salad mix, scallions, spigariello, spinach, summer squash, sweet peas, tomatoes, turnips, treviso tardivo and winter squash.

A small, two-wheeled tractor is used on the salad field, and a rototiller helps, too.

“There’s a lot of great farmers using tractors,” Briggs said.

But he and Schneider prefer their choice to keep this aspect of farming alive.

“It’s simultaneously not at all complicated and extremely complicated,” Briggs said.

“We see it not as harder” than mechanized farming, Briggs said. “Just different.”