Cross-country road trip from Bend

Slideshow, Part 2: Epic road trip visits the South, New Orleans, Florida and more


Published May 11, 2014 at 12:11AM / Updated May 12, 2014 at 11:13AM

The second half of my 4,500-mile, cross-country drive with photographer Barb Gonzalez was markedly different from the first leg.

Having agreed to deliver his 2006 Toyota Camry to her son, who had moved to Orlando, Fla., we set out from Bend on April 1. Within 10 days we had made it as far as Kansas City, Mo., traveling more than 2,000 miles across the Rocky Mountains and Great Plains on interstate highways and country roads. That part of our travel was documented in these pages a week ago.

We broke the second section of the journey into two parts. Leaving Kansas City on April 11, we traveled via Memphis and New Orleans to Orlando, arriving in the entertainment capital — best known as the home of the Walt Disney World theme parks — on April 18. After a stay of five nights, we proceeded to Miami and Key West, Fla., the farthest point to which we could drive in the mainland United States. We flew back to Central Oregon from Fort Lauderdale on April 29.

En route, we had our senses assaulted by the American South — our eyes, our ears and our taste buds. Winding through the Ozark hill country to the lower Mississippi Delta, we spent nearly a week in the cradle of American blues and jazz music, venturing from Elvis Presley’s Graceland mansion to the Dixieland clubs of New Orleans.

But far more than that, we embraced a new understanding and appreciation of the trials of our country’s African American culture. From the National Civil Rights Museum, on the site of the Martin Luther King assassination in Memphis, to the former slave quarters on the Oak Alley Plantation near New Orleans; from Kansas City to Key West, with all the stops in between; we found ourselves immersed in one lesson about black history after another.

Ozarks to Memphis

Our first day’s drive from Kansas City was a long one — about 450 miles through Missouri and Arkansas to Memphis, Tenn., on the Mississippi River. We made a short visit to Branson, Mo., which has a reputation as a country-music capital filled with theaters and music halls. We found it to be a heavily commercial, disjointed strip, extending for more than five miles west from the original town to manmade Table Rock Lake. We acknowledged Dolly Parton’s Dixie Stampede and the Roy Rogers-Dale Evans Happy Trails Theater, nodded at the God and Country Theatre and the Lawrence Welk Resort, and left just as quickly as we had arrived.

Far more charming was the Ozark Folk Center, an Arkansas state park just outside the small hill town of Mountain View.

Craftsman Sherman Anderson prepares to throw several handmade spinning tops at the Ozark Folk Center near Mountain View, Ark. The craft village here has 24 separate buildings where volunteers demonstrate everything from weaving to dulcimer making.

Barb Gonzalez / For The Bulletin

Founded more than a half-century ago to preserve the traditional heritage of the Ozark Mountain region, the Folk Center includes a crafts village of 24 separate buildings, where volunteers demonstrate everything from spinning to candlemaking, and an auditorium where people dance to the sound of banjos, mandolins and dulcimers. We enjoyed a lengthy conversation with Sherman Anderson, a semi-retired craftsman who demonstrated his skill in making spinning tops with a foot lathe. Then we were back on the road.

Two nights in Memphis were really not enough, but we made the most of our visit. Number one on our list of places to go was Graceland mansion, the erstwhile home of Elvis Presley (1935-77), whom many fans consider the greatest popular singer of the 20th century.

Studded stage costumes, worn by the late Elvis Presley, share display cases with video concert footage in an exhibition hall at the singer's Graceland mansion in Memphis. Shuttle buses whisk visitors to the mansion every few minutes for guided tours.

Barb Gonzalez / For The Bulletin

So popular is the 13.8-acre estate, we saw license plates from across the country in the stadium-sized parking lot. Shuttle buses whisk visitors to the mansion every few minutes for the start of guided tours that include Presley’s fabled “Jungle Room”; the trophy building, where scores of gold and platinum records are displayed; and the graves of the singer and his parents. Then they return to a commercial complex that features a half-dozen gift shops, the singer’s private automobile collection, and exhibits about his life and career.

We were far more impressed by the National Civil Rights Museum. Encompassing the historic Lorraine Hotel, where Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. was shot and killed in 1968, the museum opened in 1991 but completed a $28 million renovation only a week before our arrival. And it held us spellbound.

A contemporary visitor stands with clay models in front of a historical photograph of a 1960s-era protest at the National Civil Rights Museum in Memphis. Multimedia exhibits describe the violence that many African Americans encountered well into the 20th century.

Barb Gonzalez / For The Bulletin

Beginning with a history of the European colonial slave trade in Africa, it related the early history of slavery in the United States and the century of blatant discrimination that followed the Civil War. Multimedia exhibits told of the violence to which African Americans were subjected well into the 20th century, the courage that so many displayed in nonviolent protests, and the inspiration their efforts lent to civil-rights movements in other countries.

Blues country

We spent our second night in Memphis on Beale Street, its wall-to-wall nightclub scene extending for several blocks. From B.B. King’s Blues Club to the Rum Boogie Cafe, and including the historic Orpheum Theatre, Beale is lined with neon-lighted music clubs, restaurants and bars where the booze flows freely, long into the night.

Throngs of party goers pack Beale Street in downtown Memphis, its central blocks barricaded for pedestrian-only use during evening hours. Music clubs, restaurants and bars line the fabled thoroughfare, and booze flows freely long into the night.

Barb Gonzalez / For The Bulletin

King was born and raised in Mississippi’s Delta Country. So, too, were other famed blues musicians who made their marks in Memphis and elsewhere around the country — artists like Robert Johnson, Sam Cooke and Johnny Winter. When we left Memphis, we headed down U.S. Highway 61, made famous by Bob Dylan’s “Highway 61 Revisited” album, and down Mississippi’s designated “Blues Trail.” More than 150 roadside markers introduce travelers to the people, places and events that shaped the blues artists’ lives.

Little more than an hour’s drive southwest of Memphis, these signs led us into Clarksdale, a town of about 20,000 where, serendipity awaited: We found a blues festival in progress. On sidewalks and street corners throughout the otherwise quiet community, impromptu concerts inspired foot stomping, hand clapping and shouts of approval from people who had the foresight to bring their own lawn chairs. Cherokee tamales were the snack of choice. And just down the street, in the old train depot, the Delta Blues Museum recalled the careers of Clarksdale natives Muddy Waters, John Lee Hooker and Big Mama Thornton, among many others.

That night we made it as far as Vicksburg, Miss., a strategic Mississippi River town with a rich Civil War history and a floating casino in an old paddle-wheeler along Catfish Row. We took time the next morning to drive slowly through Vicksburg National Military Park, learning about an 1863 siege that helped Union forces to gain control of traffic on the lower Mississippi, and thus turn the tide of war in their favor.

Scores of antique cannon and memorial headstones, honoring the Civil War battalions of various Union states, are seen on a drive of several miles through Vicksburg National Military Park. The park commemorates an 1863 siege that turned the tide of the Civil War.

Barb Gonzalez / For The Bulletin

Caught in a severe thunderstorm between Baton Rouge and New Orleans, we detoured into Louisiana’s Oak Alley Plantation, an antebellum estate and national historic landmark on 25 acres. It was raining so hard, we weren’t certain if the Mississippi River levees were holding the water in or out of the grounds. A guided tour of the Greek Revival-style “big house,” framed by rows of graceful Virginia oak trees, introduced us to the pre-Civil War lifestyle of the Jacques Roman family. Their main cash crop was sugar cane, the farming of which relied upon slave labor; exhibits in the reconstructed slave quarters now describe the day-to-day lives of these men and women, who are remembered only by their first names.

New Orleans

Thunder and lightning greeted us to New Orleans. “NOLA,” as it is known to residents and visitors alike, is one of this country’s truly distinctive cities, its unique geographical location and history having bestowed upon it a rich Creole-Cajun culture unlike any other city.

We stayed in the French Quarter at the ornate Maison Dupuy, a delightful boutique hotel comprised of five adjacent townhouses — one of which once housed the nation’s first cotton press. Located midway between Bourbon and Basin streets, and a mere six blocks from the broad Mississippi, the hotel is central to many of the city’s leading attractions.

We spent two full days in New Orleans, mainly exploring our fabled neighborhood. We took in the singular architecture of colorful facades, arched windows and wrought-iron railings. We visited St. Louis Cathedral overlooking Jackson Square, where jazz musicians perform day and night. We stopped by Preservation Hall, whose nightly jazz concerts are legendary. We wandered into the district cemeteries, its lavish crypts rising high above the ground so that flood waters will never carry the bodies away, and through shops devoted to voodoo religious artifacts and Mardi Gras masquerade attire.

In New Orleans' French Quarter are several shops, like Rev. Zombie's, that sell artifacts used in voodoo rituals along with tourist souvenirs. Other unique stores sell the masks and costumes made famous in the city's annual late-winter Mardi Gras celebration.

Barb Gonzalez / For The Bulletin

And then there was the food. Me-oh-my-oh — jambalaya, crawfish pie, filé gumbo. Beignets with espresso in the morning. Oyster po’ boys or red beans and rice at midday. Etoufée and alligator sausage. New Orleans’ culinary universe extends far beyond the flavors that chefs Paul Prudhomme and Emeril Lagasse have made famous.

We had our best meal of the entire trip at the Commander’s Palace, where chef Tory McPhail, born and raised in Washington state, was honored by the James Beard Foundation as the best chef in the American South just a year ago. The Garden District restaurant is no less spectacular, a colorful and sprawling 1880 Victorian landmark with turrets, columns and gingerbread trim surrounding a central courtyard. McPhail served us an amazing contemporary Creole repast that featured farmed turtle soup, shrimp with pickled okra, seared fois gras and spicy veal tenderloin.

We ventured out of the city once on a half-day “swamp and bayou” tour of the Jean Lafitte National Historical Park and Preserve.

A full-grown alligator wallows in the muddy waters of the Barataria Preserve, a bayou section of the Jean Lafitte National Historical Park and Preserve south of New Orleans. Numerous gators, along with many birds and other mammals, may be seen on boat tours of the park.

Barb Gonzalez / For The Bulletin

Traveling through the Barataria Preserve on a flat-bottomed boat, we saw at least a dozen alligators — some of them nestled in tall grasses or on muddy banks, others swimming through the bayou channel — as well as wild pigs, nutria and a score of herons and other swamp birds. The excursion served to remind us that the natural environment is not far from NOLA’s urban frenzy.

Across Florida

There were fewer travel highlights as we continued east from New Orleans, sticking close to Interstate 10 as we followed the Gulf Coast through the southern legs of Mississippi and Alabama and into the Florida Panhandle. The white sandy beaches of Biloxi and Pascagoula, Miss., were beautiful indeed, but with the skies overcast and spring break looming, we pushed onward, overnighting in Tallahassee en route to Orlando.

We found no manatees at Manatee Springs State Park — days later, we finally sighted a trio of the ancient water mammals in the Merritt Island National Wildlife Refuge — but we were impressed by the raw beauty of the flooded woodland along the Suwannee River, which flows through the state park. It was quite a contrast to the thoroughbred horse ranches of the Ocala area, second only to the bluegrass country of Kentucky.

Then we were in Orlando, where Barb reunited with her son, Evan, for five days. I relaxed at the Wyndham Orlando Resort on International Drive, a quiet oasis amidst the frenzied activity of one of the country’s busiest family vacationlands. Surrounded by amusement parks and franchise restaurants, I enjoyed a brief respite from travel. Disney World didn’t move me on an afternoon visit; even EPCOT Center seemed stale and in need of an upgrade or renovation.

Universal Studios Florida was a better investment. Barb and I were joined there one day by Evan and his girlfriend, Ashley Naranjo, and we wound up spending hours in the theme park’s Islands of Adventure section. At “The Wizarding World of Harry Potter,” we wandered the lanes of Hogsmeade village, rode through Hogwarts Castle, and even experienced the sensation of the sport of quidditch.

The magical village of Hogsmeade has been recreated in The Wizarding World of Harry Potter, a popular section of the Islands of Adventure theme park at Universal Studios in Orlando. Two rides, neither for the timid, carry visitors through Hogwarts Castle.

Barb Gonzalez / For The Bulletin

Toon Lagoon and Seuss Landing helped me to recall some favorite comic characters from my youth, while the kids reveled in Marvel Super Hero Island. When I was done with the rides, I retired to Jimmy Buffett’s Margaritaville for a cheeseburger in paradise.

We visited another of Barb’s relatives in Hallandale, a north Miami suburb, and said our goodbyes to Evan and Ash, who gratefully returned to Orlando in Evan’s car. Then we borrowed another vehicle for a final excursion to the Florida Keys.

Into the Keys

The Keys are an archipelago of coral islets that arc southwesterly for more than 150 miles from the tip of the mainland Florida peninsula. Dividing the Atlantic Ocean from the Gulf of Mexico, they are linked by a single four-lane road, U.S. Highway 1, which crosses the fringe of Everglades National Park before spanning a causeway to Key Largo. Here, it’s known as the Overseas Highway, as extensive sections are built above the ocean waters.

At Lower Matecumbe Key in Islamorada, we stopped over at Robbie’s Marina, where we hand-fed bait fish to hungry wild tarpon and joined a 2½-hour snorkeling excursion. The world’s third-longest living coral reef (after those of Australia and Belize) lies a few miles offshore the Atlantic side of the Keys. Our catamaran made two stops above the reef, and we enjoyed swimming among a wide variety of tropical fishes and coral formations.

We could also have stopped to explore a sea-turtle rehabilitation hospital or to swim with dolphins. But we were anxious to reach Key West, certainly one of the mainland United States’ most isolated communities. And the town of 25,000 lived up to our expectations.

This was, after all, the town where author Ernest Hemingway lived during the 1930s and wrote several of his most famous novels, including “A Farewell to Arms” and “To Have and Have Not.” His legacy lives on at the Ernest Hemingway Home and Museum, where descendants of his six-toed cats maintain a constant presence.

Key West also was the place where President Harry S Truman maintained the “Little White House,” where he came to escape the pressures of life in the nation’s capital in the late 1940s and early 1950s.

Visitors gather on the grounds of the "Little White House," where U.S. President Harry S Truman came to escape the pressures of political life from 1945 to 1952. Today, guided tours include video footage on the man who succeeded Franklin D. Roosevelt to the presidency.

Barb Gonzalez / For The Bulletin

The residence today is open to tours. It’s just down the block from the Mel Fisher Maritime Museum, which preserves the shipwreck bounty rescued from Spanish galleons by the noted treasure hunter of the 1980s and ‘90s.

Tall ships take visitors on sunset tours from the Historic Seaport at Key West Bight, where seaside saloons complement the less atmospheric bars along Duval Street.

Pedicabs transport visitors down Duval Street, whose bars and restaurants are the center of Key West's entertainment district. A half-dozen blocks south of here, the Ernest Hemingway House and Museum preserve memories of the great 20th-century American novelist.

Barb Gonzalez / For The Bulletin

We preferred the seafood at The Stoned Crab, a wonderful restaurant at the Ibis Bay Beach Resort. At the urging of the hotel’s Australian immigrant owner, Chris Holland, we spent a couple of evening hours paddling illuminated glass-bottom kayaks over shallow sea waters. The wealth of nocturnal ocean life, from unusual sponges to lobsters and barracudas, was amazing.

Final thoughts

What a trip! We’d do it again in a heartbeat — after sufficient recovery time, of course. We would probably select a different route next time, although both of us would love to spend more time in several cities, such as Memphis and New Orleans.

A cross-country trip is a great way to experience the diversity of the United States. From the high mountains and wide-open spaces of the West, through the vast farmlands of the Great Plains and Midwest, and into the lush woodlands and waterways of the Mississippi Delta and Gulf Coast region, we had a memorable month.

Our encounters with man and nature will remain with us for a lifetime. While we are happier than ever to call Central Oregon home, we learned a great deal about places and regional cultures, helping us to better understand the needs and desires of Americans from parts of the country different than our own. These were things we never learned in a classroom.

I understand now what the well-traveled Mark Twain meant when he wrote: “I never let my schooling interfere with my education.”

— Reporter: janderson@bendbulletin.com

Expenses for 2

(April 11-29)

Gas, Kansas City, Mo., to Key West, Fla. (2,464 miles): $373.27

Meals: $840.65

Lodging: $1,504.80

Admissions: $407.50

TOTAL: $3,126.22

*Total cost, April 1-29: add to $4,699.24 ($162 per day)

Cost of return flight, Fort Lauderdale to Redmond, was paid by the party to whom the car was delivered.

If you go

Information

Arkansas Department of Parks and Tourism. 1 Capitol Mall, Little Rock, Ark.; 501-682-7777, www.arkansas.com

Louisiana Office of Tourism. 702 N. River Road, Baton Rouge, La.; 225-342-8119, 800-994-8626, www.louisianatravel.com

Mississippi Tourism Division. 501 N. West St., Jackson, Miss.; 601-359-3449, www.visitmississippi.org

Missouri Division of Tourism. 301 W. High St., Suite 290, Jefferson City, Mo.; 573-751-4133, 800-519-2100, www.visitmo.com

Tennessee Department of Tourist Development. 312 Rosa L. Parks Ave., Nashville, Tenn.; 615-741-2159, 800-462-8366, www.tn vacation.com

Visit Florida. 2540 W. Executive Center Circle, Suite 200, Tallahassee, Fla.; 850-488-5607, 888-735-2872, www.visitflorida.com

Lodging

Ibis Bay Beach Resort. 2101 N. Roosevelt Blvd., Key West, Fla.; 305-296-1043, www.ibisbayresort.com. Rates from $139

The Maison Dupuy. 1001 Toulouse St., New Orleans, La.; 504-586-8000, 800-535-9177, www.maison dupuy.com. Rates from $116

Quality Inn & Suites. 3332 Clay St., Vicksburg, Miss.; 601-636-0804, www.quality inn.com/vicksburg. Rates from $62

Red Roof Inn. 2930 Hospitality St., Tallahassee, Fla. 850-385-7884, 866-715-0006, www.redroof.com. Rates from $47

Sheraton Memphis Downtown Hotel. 250 N. Main St., Memphis, Tenn.; 901-527-7300, 866-716-8106, www.sheratonmemphisdown town.com. Rates from $119

Wyndham Orlando Resort. 8001 International Drive, Orlando, Fla.; 407-351-2420, 877-999-3223,www.wyndham.com. Rates from $79

Dining

Blues City Cafe. 138 Beale St., Memphis, Tenn.; 901-526-3637, www.bluescity cafe.com. Lunch and dinner. Moderate

Cafe Beignet. 311 Bourbon St. (and other locations), New Orleans, La.; 504-524-5530, www.cafebeignet.com. Three meals daily. Budget

Cafe Eclectic. 603 N. McLean Blvd., Memphis, Tenn.; 901-725-1718, www.cafeeclectic.net. Three meals daily. Budget

Commander’s Palace. 1403 Washington Ave., New Orleans, La.; 504-899-8221, www.commanderspalace.com. Lunch and dinner. Expensive

Galatoire’s. 209 Bourbon St., New Orleans, La.; 504-525-2021, www.galatoires.com. Lunch and dinner. Expensive

Pepe’s Cafe & Steak House. 806 Caroline St., Key West, Fla.; 305-294-7192, www.pepeskey west.com. Three meals daily. Moderate

Remoulade. 309 Bourbon St., New Orleans, La.; 504-523-0377, www.remoulade.com. Lunch and dinner. Moderate

Schooner Wharf Bar. 202 William St., Key West, Fla.; 305-292-3302, www.schoonerwharf.com. Three meals daily. Budget to moderate

The Stoned Crab. 2101 N. Roosevelt Blvd., Key West, Fla.; 305-294-4350, www.ibisbay resort.com. Three meals daily. Moderate

Attractions

Delta Blues Museum. 1 Blues Alley Lane, Clarksdale, Miss.; 662-627-6820, www.delta bluesmuseum.org

Ernest Hemingway Home and Museum. 907 Whitehead St., Key West, Fla.; 305-294-1136, www.hemingwayhome.com

Graceland. 3717 Elvis Presley Blvd., Memphis, Tenn.; 901-332-3322, www.graceland.com

Harry S. Truman Little White House. 111 Front St., Key West, Fla.; 305-294-9911, www.trumanlittlewhitehouse.com

Jean Lafitte National Historical Park and Preserve. 6588 Barataria Blvd., Marrero, La.; 504-589-3882, www.nps.gov/jela

Mel Fisher Maritime Museum. 200 Greene St., Key West, Fla.; 305-294-2633, www.melfisher.org

National Civil Rights Museum. 450 Mulberry St., Memphis, Tenn.; 901-521-9699, www.civil rightsmuseum.org

Oak Alley Plantation. 3645 State Highway 18, Vacherie, La.; 225-265-2151, www.oakalley plantation.org

Ozark Folk Center State Park. 1032 Park Ave., Mountain View, Ark.; 870-269-3851, www.ozark folkcenter.com

Robbie’s Marina. 77522 Overseas Hwy., Islamorada, Fla.; 305-664-8070, www.robbies.com

Universal Studios Florida. 1000 Universal Studios Plaza, Orlando, Fla.; 407-363-8000, 888-762-0820, www.universal orlando.com

Vicksburg National Military Park. 3201 Clay St., Vicksburg, Miss.; 601-636-0583, www.nps.gov/vick

Walt Disney World. Lake Buena Vista, Florida; 407-939-5277, 800-WDISNEY, https://disney world.disney.go.com