Sara Moulton

Special To The Washington Post

Nomenclature-wise, country-style pork ribs are a mystery. They don’t come from the rib section of the animal, and they are often sold boneless. But tastewise, they make all the sense in the world. Delicious to a fault and wonderfully moist, these "ribs" look like thick and fatty pork chops. If you have never tried them before, you are in for a treat.

You can cook this cut a bunch of ways, but it happens to be especially well suited to braising, becoming tender and generating a deeply flavored sauce as it goes. Here, we have amped up its natural porkiness with the cured form of Spanish chorizo, a pork sausage spiked with paprika. In this recipe, though, we saute the dried chorizo, which releases some of its fat, and then braise it with the ribs.

On the chance that fresh late-summer tomatoes are still gracing your local market, those are the ones to use. But canned chopped whole tomatoes will fill the bill, too. Just be sure to add their juices.

This recipe in whole — pork ribs, chorizo, veggies and chickpeas — is notably hearty. Even so, you will want to do your best to soak up all of its sauce, which is why I recommend serving it with a starch such as Spanish rice. Also, good as it is freshly made, this dish improves over time. You can refrigerate it two or three days ahead, or freeze it..

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