10 Barrel Brewing Co. – East Side

Food: () Creative pub menu has more pluses than minuses; burgers are excellent

Service: () Orders are quickly taken and delivered by a friendly staff

Atmosphere: () Contemporary room features large patio and brewery viewing windows

More Info

Location: 62950 NE 18th St., Bend

Hours: 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Sunday to Thursday, 11 a.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday

Cuisine: Gourmet pub fare and pizzas

Price range: Starters and salads $5 to $14, sandwiches $11 to $14, pizzas $15 to $20

Credit cards: American Express, Discover, Master Card, Visa

Kids’ menu: On request

Vegetarian and gluten-free menu: Hummus, salads, wheatberry burger; gluten-free buns on request

Alcoholic beverages: Full bar

Outdoor seating: Extensive patio space

Reservations: No

Contact: 10barrel.com, 541-241-7733

For more area restaurant reviews, visit www.bend bulletin.com/restaurants

Executive chef James Ludwicki created a fine pub menu at the original 10 Barrel Brewing Co., at Bend’s west-side location on Galveston Avenue. But he has stretched his menu to a new level at the brewing company’s east-side pub, which opened in early June.

There are more starters, new salad courses and extended “pub grub” sandwich options. The gourmet pizzas, for which 10 Barrel has become known, are as prominent as they have ever been.

This fare is being served in an impressive space in a northeast Bend industrial zone with few other dining options, adjoining the brewery on 18th Street between Empire Avenue and Brinson Boulevard.

In fact, the pub has an industrial feel, with lots of stainless-steel fittings beneath high rafters with track lighting. An open kitchen looks toward the bar across the main dining room, surrounded by TVs for sports events, and a full wall of rear windows offer a view of the brewing operation.

A spacious front patio nearly doubles the interior space and provides an arena for occasional community events.

I found service to be excellent on both of my recent visits. Each time, I was promptly greeted and seated by a hostess, who offered a choice between indoor and outdoor seating. Drink and food orders were quickly taken and delivered by friendly servers, and water glasses were refilled with regularity.

Protein and veggies

Whereas a typical pub menu features lots of carbohydrate-heavy and deep-fried starters, 10 Barrel’s east-side pub includes plenty of protein and vegetable dishes.

And while you can get an order of fried pickles or nachos covered with steak and melted bleu cheese, you can also order charcuterie, hummus, oyster shooters or even Brussels sprouts.

I’m a fan of chicken wings, and the 10 Barrel variety didn’t disappoint. Rather than having them served with vinegar-heavy buffalo sauce, I opted for Korean barbecue. Featuring spicy and garlic-rich gochujang, they were finished with a sprinkle of sesame seeds and served with ranch dressing for dipping, and were delicious.

The salads fell a little short of expectations. My dining companion ordered grilled shrimp from the “Greens” section of the menu, but the only green items were a garnish of arugula and a couple of broccoli buds in a medley of curry-roasted vegetables. Essentially, this was a North African-influenced plate of a half-dozen medium-size shrimp marinated in garlicky chermoula and served on a bed of couscous. Almonds, raisins and a lemon-tahini vinaigrette accompanied. It was good, but it wasn’t a salad.

“Beet & Fennel” was a salad. Its red and golden beets, coarsely chopped, were presented on a bed of peppery arugula with candied hazelnuts, gobs of goat cheese and sherry vinaigrette. There wasn’t as much shaved fennel as the name might suggest. But the addition of flank steak — six slices for $6 — made this an entree.

Entree choices

I really enjoyed the fish and chips. Lightly battered in the brewery’s own golden “Mike Saw a Sasquatch” Session Ale were four hefty, 2-ounce sticks of Pacific cod — crispy on the outside, moist and flaky on the inside. They were served with white-cabbage slaw and tartar sauce, both with a generous amount of creamy horseradish mixed in. The french fries were no better than ordinary, however.

The Pubhouse Burger was also excellent. Featuring Ludwicki’s own blend of ground chuck and Wagyu beef, it was topped with applewood-smoked bacon, cheddar cheese and onions crispy-fried with 10 Barrel’s Sinistor Black Ale. It was dressed with A-1 Steak Sauce and mayonnaise; lettuce and tomato offered some garnish. Instead of fries, I chose to pay an extra $2 for a side salad; it was basic but very fresh.

I’ve always felt the best things on the menu at 10 Barrel’s Galveston Avenue location are the pizzas. They remain outstanding on 18th Street. The secret, I suspect, may be in the yeasty crust, neither thick nor thin.

Our pancetta pizza wasn’t quite as good as we had hoped. A very thin layer of marinara sauce was topped with fresh mozzarella cheese and the Italian bacon from which the pie takes its name. Chopped artichoke hearts, red onions and black olives (they weren’t sufficiently minced to be a tapenade) were distributed inconsistently over the eight slices. And a handful of arugula dropped on top was unnecessary.

Nevertheless, this is better-than-average pub fare. There aren’t too many brewpubs where you’ll find a steelhead wrap or a Vietnamese shrimp sandwich on the menu. And I like Ludwicki’s kitchen style, not to mention 10 Barrel’s fine beers.

— John Gottberg Anderson can be reached at janderson@bendbulletin.com.

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