Floating, fishing and more on John Day

Roger Phillips / Idaho Statesman /

Published Jun 26, 2013 at 05:00AM

When you’ve bragged about how well a river fishes (it’s easy to exaggerate things), then the river throws you a curveball and you’re left looking stupid and fishless.

That wasn’t the case with Oregon’s John Day River.

We had just launched the raft and ferried across the river from the boat launch when my first few casts hit the water and my fly rod bowed. Not only had I just caught my first smallmouth bass, but two others chased it toward the boat.

Eastern Oregon may not seem a like a bass fishing hot spot, but the John Day is about as hot as it gets, and fishing is arguably not even the river’s main attraction.

The John Day River basin drains nearly 8,100 square miles in eastern Oregon and is one of longest free-flowing river systems in the U.S.

Its headwaters are in the Strawberry Mountain Range that tops out at over 9,000 feet, and the river pours into the Columbia River at 265 feet in elevation near Biggs.

Between those extremes, it cuts through a mix of redrock wilderness, ranchland and road-accessible sections with lots of irrigated farmland.

An early runoff

My fishing buddy, Darren Strong, of Boise, and I had this trip on the books for months.

With any undammed river, it’s a crapshoot with flows. When we planned this trip during winter, early June seemed like a good window when the peak spring flows had receded, but there was still plenty of water for floating.

As it turned out, we launched on June 6 as the water was receding toward minimum flows for a full-sized raft.

It’s now at minimum floating flows for small craft such as inflatable kayaks or small catarafts, and that might not last long, either.

But that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t tuck this river away for a future float trip.

It’s a beautiful desert river that won’t leave you with white knuckles worrying about whitewater.

And those bass? Well, if you want to keep track of how many you catch, better bring a golf clicker unless you’re really good with counting numbers in your head.

The river

Service Creek launch is at about 2,400 feet elevation and the river flows through wild and agriculture lands.

The river’s flow is fairly steady with lots of riffles and a few rapids that are well-marked on the maps.

There are also stretches of slow flows that often coincide with upstream winds.

People floating the river should have experience on fast-moving rivers and some whitewater skills. Overall, this is a pretty forgiving river suitable for boats including rafts, driftboats, small fishing-style catarafts, inflatable and hard-shell kayaks, rafts and canoes.

Long-term river data going back to 1929 show mean monthly flows of 5,040 cfs in May, 2,490 cfs in June and 563 cfs in July. The type of craft floaters use should be matched to the flows.

BLM recommends the following minimum flows for boaters:

• Drift boats: 800 cfs

• Inflatable rafts: 500 cfs

• Canoes: 300 cfs

• Inflatable kayaks: 200 cfs

BLM recreation planner Heidi Mottl said there’s been growing use at low water with people in inflatable kayaks launching when the river is as low as 200 cfs.

Floaters launching during low water should plan on spending more time on the water because lower flows mean slower river speed, she said.

Like most desert rivers, upstream winds are common, especially in the afternoon.

Scenery

The river corridor is roughly split among between agriculture, ranchland and wildlands. Those expecting a “wilderness” float will be disappointed.

But it’s a scenic trip that’s a combination of redrock, volcanic basalt, rolling hills and lots of interesting geologic formations. The area has a similar look to the Leslie Gulch area at the head of Owyhee Reservoir.

The river corridor is lush with willows and grasses, depending on season. There are also lots of juniper and pine trees near the river.

The section from Service Creek to Clarno has few tributaries that flow into the river, and the local farms and ranches draw lots of water from the river for irrigation, so flows can get smaller as you go downstream.

Camping

Overall, this river has excellent camping on flat benches above the river with large shade trees at many locations.

The camps are marked on the map, and many have well-worn trails leading to them that are easily visible from the river. Many also are marked with brown carsonite signs.

This river is typically permitted to limit the number of floaters and ensure there are plenty of campsites for everyone. However, even during permit season you can expect competition for prime spots. Campsites are not assigned on this river, so the first group to stake a claim gets the spot.

Also, with a mix of private and public lands, the campsites often are located in clusters, and there are long stretches of private land in between where camping is not allowed. Plan your trip accordingly and don’t bank on the last available campsite. If you miss it, you may have a long float before the next one.

More details

There are several sections of the John Day River that are commonly floated.

If you’re into a casual float with mild whitewater (except during peak runoff), Service Creek to Clarno is a 47-mile stretch that you can typically do in three days with several launches and takeouts in between to shorten the trip into smaller segments.

There are about four Class II rapids except for during peak runoff, when some of them become mild Class III.

Several companies provide shuttles. Service Creek Lodge near the launch site charged $80 for the shuttle to the Clarno launch.

A longer option is the Clarno-to-Cottonwood section, which is 70 miles long and typically done in five days. This section has more whitewater, and most of the rapids are Class II and III except at high water, when some become Class IV.