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Getting a toehold at ol’ Lake Tahoe

LAKE TAHOE, Calif. — I had seen Lake Tahoe only in winter, its shores under deep snow. So, on Day 1 of my first warm-weather trip in May, I couldn’t stop prowling the water’s edge, scanning for new hues of blue.

On Day 2, I rented a bike. On Day 3, I hiked above....

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