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A cheese for all seasons (but this one especially)

Fresh goat cheese is becoming a favorite for summer cooking

COLRAIN, Mass. — Joe Hillman is leaning against his barn, smoking a pipe and looking up at the steep, rocky hillside pasture where his herd of goats is browsing clover, birch bark and tender dandelion greens. His wife, Carolyn, is in the cheese room, ladling curds from the morning....

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