The incendiary anatomy of a chili

A quick note on heat: Capsaicin is found in the inner ribs, or veins, of chilies, not just the seeds. To minimize the heat (why you’d ever want to do that, I don’t know), remove the ribs with the seeds. And when working with chilies, be careful. The capsaicin in the oils can burn your hands and eyes. Wear gloves when handling the hottest chilies, and work in a well-ventilated area.
Chili heat varies by type, with Anaheim and pasilla on the milder end and jalapenos and serranos packing somewhat more of a punch. Habaneros (or Scotch bonnets if you can find them) are legendary, and even naga jolokia (the ghost chili) is increasingly easier to find.
For true hotheads, you can buy pure capsaicin by itself for a practically weapon-grade sauce.
Fresh green chilies are fine, though the flavor can be a little underripe and “grassy." Ripe red chilies are the best, though they are generally seasonal, available typically late summer through early fall.
Dried chilies can be found year-round, their flavor more concentrated and complex than fresh chilies. To use them in a sauce, toast them briefly over a hot skillet to add smoky notes, then soak them in hot water to soften. Once softened, they can be used just like fresh.
— Los Angeles Times
Four-Pepper Hot Sauce
Makes about 1 quart hot sauce.
Total time: 1 hour.
This sauce should be prepared in a well-ventilated area.
3 oz dried New Mexico chilies
1½ oz dried ancho chilies
1 oz dried arbol chilies
½ oz dried pequin chilies
8 to 12 cloves garlic
¼ to ½ tsp ground cloves
2 tsp dried oregano
2 tsp toasted whole cumin seeds, ground
2 tsp salt, more as desired
1 C cider vinegar
¼ C olive oil
Bring a kettle or large saucepan of water to boil.
Meanwhile, heat a large comal or skillet over medium-high heat until hot. Place a few chilies on the comal at a time, gently pressing to flatten. Leave the chilies just until aromatic, a few seconds, then turn them over and heat again until aromatic, careful not to burn (burning the chilies will make them bitter). Repeat until all of the chilies are heated; for the smaller chilies, shake them briefly in the comal to warm.
Stem the chilies and place them in a large bowl. Pour over boiling water to cover. Weight the chilies with a plate to keep them submerged, and set aside for 15 minutes until they are softened.
Remove the chilies from the soaking water (reserve the water) and place them in a blender. Add the garlic, cloves, oregano, cumin seeds and salt, along with the cider vinegar, 2 cups soaking water (taste the soaking water before using, and if it tastes bitter, use plain water) and the oil.
Puree the sauce until it is completely smooth, adding water as needed to thin. Taste the sauce — the flavors will vary with each batch of chilies — and adjust the flavorings and seasonings to taste (sweeten if desired with a little sugar).
Using a very fine mesh strainer or chinois, strain the sauce into a large heavy-bottomed saucepan. Whisk in additional water to thin as desired. Bring the sauce to a simmer and stir frequently for 3 to 5 minutes to marry the flavors, then remove from heat. Pour the sauce into a glass jar or bottle, cover and refrigerate.
Sriracha-Style Hot Sauce
Makes about 1½ cups sauce.
Total time: 25 minutes.
This sauce should be prepared in a well-ventilated area and is best prepared at least 1 to 2 days before using. Cane vinegar and palm sugar can be found at select well-stocked cooking stores, as well as Asian markets.
1 lb mixed fresh red chilies (such as red Fresnos or red jalapenos), stemmed and chopped
2 to 4 cloves garlic
¼ C cane or rice vinegar
1½ tsp sea salt, more if desired
2 TBS palm or light brown sugar, more if desired
In the bowl of a food processor, pulse together the chilies, garlic, vinegar, salt and sugar to form a coarse paste.
Transfer the mixture to a non-reactive saucepan and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the aroma softens or mellows a bit, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat.
Blend the sauce again to form a smooth paste, thinning as desired with water.
Strain the sauce, pressing the solids through a fine mesh strainer with a rubber spatula or wooden spoon. Taste the sauce, and tweak the flavors as desired with additional salt, sugar or vinegar. Remove the sauce to a glass jar or bottle and cool completely. Refrigerate until needed.
Caribbean Jerk-Style Hot Sauce
Makes about 3 cups hot sauce.
Total time: 30 minutes.
The sauce should be prepared in a well-ventilated area. Muscovado sugar can be found at most cooking and baking supply stores. Wear gloves while chopping the Scotch bonnet or habanero peppers because the heat in the oils can sting your hands. Wash your hands thoroughly after handling the peppers.
1½ tsp freshly ground black pepper
¾ tsp grated nutmeg
1½ tsp ground allspice
½ tsp ground cinnamon
¼ tsp ground cloves
2 TBS salt
¼ C muscovado or dark brown sugar
6 to 9 Scotch bonnet or habanero peppers, stemmed and chopped
4 tsp minced garlic
1 TBS minced ginger
2 bunches scallions, chopped (green and white parts)
Zest and juice of 4 limes
¼ C distilled white vinegar
¼ C dark rum
¼ C oil
½ to 1 C water
In the bowl of a food processor, combine the pepper, nutmeg, allspice, cinnamon, cloves, salt, sugar, peppers, garlic, ginger, scallions, lime zest and juice, vinegar, rum and oil. Pulse a few times to form a coarse paste.
Transfer the mixture to a medium, heavy-bottomed saucepan and simmer for 3 to 5 minutes, stirring frequently, to marry the flavors.
Remove from heat. Place the mixture back in a food processor or blender and blend to form a smooth sauce, thinning as desired with one-half to 1 cup water. Strain if desired. To store, refrigerate the sauce in a covered glass bottle or jar.