Beast of a roast impresses guests

By Melissa Clark / New York Times News Service

Published: December 18. 2012 4:00AM PST

Crown Roast of Pork With Fennel and Lemon

Makes 10 to 12 servings.
11⁄2 tsp fennel seeds
Rosemary leaves from 2 bushy sprigs
5 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped
1⁄4 C sage leaves and tender sprigs
Finely grated zest of 1 lemon
1 tsp fennel pollen (optional)
1 TBS and 1 pinch coarse kosher salt
5 TBS extra-virgin olive oil
1 8- to 9-lb crown roast of pork (10 to 12 ribs)
1 tsp cracked black pepper
In small skillet, toast fennel seeds until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes.
Place toasted fennel seeds, rosemary, garlic, sage, lemon zest, fennel pollen (if using) and pinch of salt in blender. Run blender briefly to chop everything up, then add olive oil, and blend until mixture becomes a paste, scraping down sides occasionally with a rubber spatula.
Wipe pork with paper towels, then season evenly with remaining tablespoon salt and the pepper. Smear herb paste all over meat, making sure to coat the middle and the crevices on the sides of the chops.
Let marinate at room temperature for at least 2 hours, or longer in refrigerator. (Overnight is ideal.) If you’ve chilled the meat, bring to room temperature for at least an hour before roasting.
Heat oven to 450 degrees. Place roast upside down (bones down) in large roasting pan. (You can use a rack to help steady it if you like.) Roast for 20 minutes, then turn heat down to 350 and continue roasting until meat registers 145 degrees on an instant-read thermometer, about 11⁄2 to 2 hours longer.
Let rest 10 minutes before carving.

It’s that roast beast feast time of year, when it’s almost de rigueur to make a very large piece of meat the focal point of your meal (vegetarians excepted).

The kind of meat — beef, pork, turkey, lamb — is less important than its size. You want something that makes people sit up and notice, something with stage presence, something that doesn’t require trimmings and sauces and garnishes. The meat should speak for itself.

A crown roast of pork fills the bill nicely. It even sounds majestic, although you’d need a gargantuan head for the coronation.

As with all good cuts of meat, a crown roast doesn’t need more than salt, pepper and a slick of oil for cooking. But fresh herbs and a little garlic, lemon and fennel seed can only make it better.

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