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more photosA patron at Sage Cafe and Coffee House places her order with employee Maddy Wurm while owner Karen Taylor makes a drink in the background. The NorthWest Crossing cafe is a popular breakfast and lunch spot.
Andy Tullis / The Bulletin
A Sage decision
The Sage Cafe is a focal point of NorthWest Crossing
By John Gottberg Anderson / For The Bulletin
Published: November 20. 2009 4:00AM PSTThe very first business to open in Bend's NorthWest Crossing neighborhood was the Sage Cafe and Coffee House. Established in February 2003, the small shop quickly and logically became a community center, providing fast meals and good java as the neighborhood grew and expanded.
There are now several other restaurants in the district, but the Sage Cafe continues to hold its own. It was, indeed, a sage decision to open a cafe even when Mount Washington and NorthWest Crossing drives were little more than two lonely ribbons through sagebrush country.
Under the direction of owner Karen Taylor, who bought the Sage Cafe from founder Chris McCluskey in late 2004, the shop has matured with its community. It remains tiny, with just four tables, a couple of window seats and a single big fluffy chair; in warm weather, there is some additional seating on the sidewalk outside the front door.
But its small size doesn't discourage patrons from stopping in for breakfast or lunch, often on a takeout basis. The choice of pastries and egg dishes, salads and sandwiches, keeps regular customers coming back again and again. And Taylor's partnership with a handful of downtown Bend businesses — Soupçon provides daily soups, for instance, and Taco Stand offers its burritos — enables NorthWest Crossing residents the opportunity to enjoy a variety of inexpensive local foods without having to drive outside their own neighborhood.
Starting the day
I've had breakfast from Sage only once, but it was an outstanding vegetable quiche ($4.50). Rich with cheese and eggs, it was baked in a flaky crust and removed from the oven with a thin layer of brown on top, just as a good quiche should have. Chunks of pumpkin and artichoke hearts were the dominant flavors, complemented with mushrooms, onions and zucchini. I might come back for this on a weekly basis.
But there are many other choices for the day's first meal. A breakfast burrito with cheese and egg, choice of meat, salsa and sour cream is just $4.
A ham-and-cheese croissant is $3.75. A bowl of granola with yogurt and fruit is $4.25. Or, for the same price, you can get a big poppy-seed muffin and a 16-ounce cup of freshly brewed coffee.
Sage also has a long list of specialty drinks, ranging from the very healthy (a large acai smoothie is $4) to the decadent (an Oreo cookie milkshake runs $3.75).
Salads, sandwiches
Another day, in the mood for a salad, I stepped up to the counter to order Sage's fresh and crisp Greek salad ($4.75 and $6, depending on size). Accented with feta cheese and kalamata olives, lightly dressed, it made a fine light meal.
On another visit, I'm going to order the salad sampler ($6.50), which will allow me to try a pair of the cafe's green plates. The crunchy cabbage-and-grilled chicken salad intrigues me; I may pair it with a pear summer salad, or perhaps a spinach-and-strawberry salad.
The sandwich side of the menu offers a number of options, from paninis to traditional build-your-own deli-style sandwiches. I ordered a roast beef on rosemary bread with havarti cheese, and filled out the sandwich with lettuce, tomato, red onion, Dijon mustard and roasted red peppers. In particular, I thought the peppers were a nice touch; I don't think most delis offer them as a condiment.
A warm panini, labeled the “Gourmet” ($6.75), was even more creative. Slices of pear, walnuts and provolone cheese were grilled together with fresh basil leaves, a sun-dried tomato pesto and a spread of garlic-herb cream cheese. This meal burst with flavor.
A pre-made wrap ($5.75) of chopped chicken breast and lightly cooked bacon was less inspired. Finished with ranch dressing, along with leaf lettuce, sliced tomato and shredded cheddar, and rolled in an ordinary flour tortilla, this is the one dish I've had at Sage that I wouldn't go back for.
Many menu options
The little restaurant also offers individual pizzas ($4.50) — including margarita, barbecued-chicken or Greek — and a handful of home-cooked entrees. Although I haven't tried it, Taylor said the mac and cheese ($4.50) is very popular, and many customers pay a little extra to add chicken, tomato and fresh basil to the noodle-y blend. The menu also features lasagna ($8), chicken pot pies ($7.50) and several Mexican dishes.
And then there are the specialty soups, made daily by Soupçon chef Steven Draheim. On the day of my last visit, the selection was a curried pumpkin soup with coconut, fresh basil, red peppers and chickpeas. The aroma alone brought a smile to my face.
“We try to use as many local products as we can, as long as it's the best product available,” said Taylor. Eggs and milk, coffee and tea were just a few of the items on her list of Central Oregon purveyors.
Keeping the locals happy has made the Sage Cafe a success. While I probably wouldn't drive all the way across town for a meal here, I certainly would make it a point to stop by when I'm in the neighborhood of Broken Top or Summit High School. And I'd recommend it to any of my friends who live in NorthWest Crossing.
SMALL BITE
Mother's Juice Cafe has begun offering free delivery of lunches to Bend offices. An online menu offers a wide selection of salads ($5.25 to $8.25) and sandwiches ($4.95 to $8.95), as well as a daily soup special ($3.95 and $5.95), plus fruit and cookie platters. Clients must place their orders by 10:30 a.m. to assure lunch-hour delivery. Open 7 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday to Friday, 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. 1255 N.W. Galveston Ave., Bend; 541-318-0989, www.mothers juicecafe.com.
RECENT REVIEWS
Tetherow Golf Club Bar & Grill (A-): Outstanding dinner entrees speak highly to the ability of young chef Rian Mulligan, who has an affinity for such ingredients as truffle oil and balsamic vinegar. Prices are moderate, the staff friendly and well-trained, and the northerly golf-course views among the best in the region. Lunch 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. every day, dinner 5 p.m. to close Thursday to Sunday. 61240 Skyline Ranch Road, Bend; 541-388-2582, www .tetherow.com.
Country Catering Co. (B-): Highly regarded by many for its tri-tip steak and ranch-style barbecue, this friendly family operation has a deli counter with fair prices at breakfast and lunch times. The meat is good but the sandwiches, in particular, and specialty salads are disappointing. Open 6:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. Monday to Friday, 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Saturday. 900 S.E. Wilson Ave., Bend; 541-383-5014, www.bendcatering.com.
Diego's Spirited Kitchen (A-): Bringing a creative gourmet sensibility to classic Mexican and Southwestern plates, Diego's boasts a professional wait staff, moderate prices and a rich, dark ambience. Dishes include the likes of pork carnitas raviolis, coconut-shrimp tacos and a vaquero steak in a bourbon-chipotle sauce. 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. every day. 447 S.W. Sixth St., Redmond; 541-316-2002.
Tomo Japanese Restaurant (B): Although the seafood is fresh and the butterfish superb, sushi rice is mediocre and hot dishes such as teriyaki chicken lack finesse. Nonetheless, the prices are reasonable, service friendly and atmosphere inviting. Lunch 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Monday to Saturday; dinner 4 to 9 p.m. Monday to Thursday, 4 to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday, 3 to 8:30 p.m. Sunday. 61160 S. U.S. Highway 97, Bend; 541-323-8888, www.bendsushi.com.
John Gottberg Anderson can be reached at janderson@bendbulletin.com
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